6 Most Popular Rover 25 Posts

To celebrate the fact that this little blog about my MG Rover 25 has reached 20,000+ page views, I thought I would put up a post with a couple of interesting facts and figures, and a list of your favourite updates.

The blog gets a massively diverse array of visitors, from the UK to USA, Spain, Serbia and Russia. It is becoming more and more popular each month, with around 1,300 page views last month.

Most of you are using Internet Explorer, closely followed by Firefox and Chrome. Almost all of you are viewing the blog from Windows, and as for the mobile readers, it appears this blog is more popular with iOS users than Android.

A little while ago my image hosting site changed the number of images you could host with them, and a lot of my images got taken down as a result. Unimpressed I am now part way through uploading the pictures to Google. Using this as a positive I have gone to all the old posts and rewritten them with more details and more pictures, so in the long run it's worked out better for you guys.

At the end of the day, I hope it has inspired and helped all that have come here, and may continue to do so in the future for many years to come.

Enough chat, onto the most popular posts, click on the titles to go to the related post:


Solar Red Modified Rover 25








Vibe CBR12 Evo II Subwoofer




MG ZR Half Leather Matrix Seats




Rover 25 K-Series Exhaust Manifold Heatshield







Vibe SE K-Series 60 Speaker




Front Door Speaker Upgrade






Head Gasket Replaced - Top End Refurbished

The car had been slowly losing water and smoking a little on start up for quite some time, but recently it started getting worse.

I decided to get a compression tester to confirm the sneaking suspicion the car was developing head gasket failure again. It had already been done by Rover under warranty before my ownership. You would have thought they'd do a good job of it, but obviously not.

The compression test turned up some damning results that confirmed the head gasket was on its way out. The results are shown below;

1 - 195
2 - 195
3 - 180
4 - 200

As you can see, cylinder 3's compression is way down on cylinder 4's.

With those results I started populating the kit I'd need to do a proper job fixing it.

I ordered the following from eBay:





With all the kit ordered and delivered, work got under way. First thing to do was to get the engine stripped down and the head off.




With the head off I could analyse the head gasket and confirm that it was indeed gone. As you can see from the photos below the gasket has started to break down. You can see the orange elastomer has started to melt in quite a few places.




I also checked the variance in the head surface, in places I could get a 002 shim under a straight edge placed across the head.



With the head off I started removing the tappets and bagging them individually, numbering which position and which side they came from so as to return everything back to it's original location. The valves also got the same treatment.



Whilst the head was off for skimming, I started refurbishing the tappets. All 16 were taken apart and cleaned  in white spirits, dried, then refilled with brand new oil.




Whilst being skimmed, the head got cleaned up a bit too. Here's how it looked before and after the work was done.

Before (left) - After (right)




Now the head is back I could start rebuilding it, first up was lapping the valves back in.





Now that the valves were back in, the rebuild could start. The block was cleaned up a little and all the old coolant dried up, also the tappets were replaced.


Whilst the cam carrier was off that got cleaned up too. Carefully, the cam carrier sealant was squeezed on and spread out across the face.


Sealant on, the cam carrier could also be put in place, and all the bolts tightened up in the specific sequence.


Unfortunately I didn't get any more photos than this, however, the engine got put back together successfully, all new parts went on ok too.

On the first firing up the engine revved up to the red line, so it was quickly turned off. Second time round it was fine.

After the work was the done the engine ran so smoothly and quietly, it held its water and wasn't smoking. A complete success, and after a test drive the car was feeling better than ever. Despite the hard work, and shelling out just over £250, it was more than worth it to get the car back into excellent running condition.

Final thing to do was add the timing belt sticker and fill in the mileage and date. As you can see, it's taken me a little while to type this up!





Heater Resistor Repaired

After a rather uneventful day at work, I was almost done with my commute when I noticed that the heater I had set to stage 1 wasn't actually doing anything. I initially thought it might be a dodgy heater unit.

After a little investigation, it appeared that my heater resistors had gone (apparently very common in Rovers), thankfully this is a piece of cake to fix. Went on ebay and ordered a REZPAX repair kit for about £7. For anyone that has this problem, they have an instructional .pdf that might be of some use. Check out the link below.


How to fix MG ZR / Rover 25 heater resistors


To get at the heater resistor pack the glove box had to come out, so that was the first job. Then out with the resistor pack. This is what I was greeted with. It's not very clear in the second one, but you can just make out that the nearest resistor is split two coils from the left end.



Next I snipped off the old resistors and broke out the new set. (I forgot to take a picture of the new set not attached so I nabbed REZPAX image, my kit looked identical to the picture). Then just soldered them on. Refitted it and jobs a good'en, all settings work fine. Another plus is the resistors look a little better in quality too, so shouldn't go again.




Door Card Clips Replaced

Over the winter a couple of clips broke that hold the door card to the door frame. Apparently this is a common thing with Rovers, so I ordered a few off of ebay.

Got 10 for something like £2.50 posted, cheap as chips.






First job, get the door card off. If you want to know how I did that, take a look at my door card removal guide here - Door Cards - Removal and Refitting

After fetching the door card off, I noticed that one clip (the broken one) was still stuck in the door. You could also see that almost all of the clips were a different type. As I had bought 10, I decided to swap them all out for some new ones. Compared to the ones that were on it, the new ones looked a lot meatier too. After swapping them all out, I just put the door card back on and all is well. Holds nice and tight against the door.


Broken Clip



Mixed Old Clips



New Clips


75000 Mile Service

Service time, long over due as a result of mother nature.

Pretty big one this time, decided to refresh a few elements.

The full list of what's been done;

  • New radiator
  • Coolant flush and replaced with O.A.T + water (1:1 mix)
  • Oil changed for Mobile Super 2000
  • Oil filter changed for a new HOF213 halfords part
  • Wynn's Hydraulic valve lifter treatment added.



First up was to change the radiator over. I picked up a brand new one off of ebay dirt cheap, under £30. So all hoses off and out came the old one. Which on inspection after removal, was considerably worse than I thought it was. As you can see from the pictures below it was pretty corroded, with blue tinge's all over, probably coolant.

Here are some pictures of the old one and the shiny new one. (Excuse the state of my car in the picture of the radiator fitted)






Whilst the radiator was off, I took the chance to flush the coolant system. Since I had bought it, it had the wrong type of coolant in it (unbeknownst to me). So out came the hose and flushing began. All signs were good as only clear water came out, no mayo/hgf signs. Then with the radiator fitted, the new O.A.T coolant was added. The bleed screw was a bit of a bugger to locate, for your (and my) information a picture of it is below.




All changed the engine runs slightly quieter, as always with a service, and stays at the right temperature. So all-in-all a successful service. 

For the price of a new one, I'd definitely recommend changing your radiator, judging by mine yours could end up being quite a lot worse than you thought.